Wow, a "full tang" sword that is actually full tang. I've only seen that once before, by Kris Cutlery. Here's the deal. The hilt of a sword softens the impact as well as protects the blade from your sweat. Otherwise, after a single class or battle, you would have rust all along the tang from your sweat. The only realistic and usable tang is what I call a 3/4 enclosed tang. This encompasses almost every historical Eastern or European sword that we have ever seen, and the majority of the other times were when there was no tang at all (as in a katar or pata).
Let me give you a few reasons why all these swords are not worth the bandwidth to get the pictures.
1st: Stainless Steel = Suicide
Stainless is filled with Chromium, any stainless alloy of any hardness will be dangerously brittle. When you strike anything with a stainless blade, you run a risk of shattering the steel. The shards can fly everywhere, including your legs and/or eyes. I haven't hear of anyone killed when their sword shattered, but I have seen at least one massive scar on a man's leg, and other injuries are very common. Almost no one in that situation gets out unscathed.
2nd: You Get What You Pay for or Less, Never More
To make a good sword, you need good materials. A six foot bar of quality S7 steel will set you back $40-$60.
Quality wood and brass fittings will cost ~$20.
Charcoal for the fire is expensive due to the quantity, $20 easily during the entire process. You need good charcoal to prevent adding sulfer to the steel (good for shattering fun).
That's $70-$90 of materials just for the blade itself, not counting wear and tear on the forge, hammers, bellows, mills, anvils, saws, and other used materials (including clay, water/oil for quenching, etc), much less the rent for the building, electricity for the lights, the salesman who brings you the sword, the insurance on the place, etc.
Now, you come to the expensive part, labor.
A blade takes a lot of time to make. Let's keep a very simple estimate. 8 hours forging, 3 hours hardening and tempering (so the blade keeps an edge without being brittle), 3 hours sharpening and polishing, 3 hours casting/carving the furniture, half an hour to assemble (make that 1 1/2 for wrapped grips), and another half an hour to test. That's 19 man-hours for a single blade. Note that this is a very low estimate. It doesn't take into account special techniques (traditional Japanese tamahagne forging takes 40-60 hours just to make the blade), or any specific request.
Now, the labor rates are also very high. A traditional Japanese swordsmith apprenticeship takes five years. The longest I know is Angelsword's apprenticeship, twelve years from start to finish, and they will only consider college graduates. Now, would you want to have spent decades in school to work for minimum wage? Not even in China will skilled swordsmiths work for the sum necessary to get those blade prices. 20 to 30 hours of a skilled professional at even $30 an hour is $600-$900, and would you get the equivalent of a doctoral education to make $60,000 a year full time?
Then, you have profit. If a business doesn't make profit, they falter and die. These businesses have been around for years, so you know they aren't losing money.
So, these swords are selling for $50-$150. How? By making sacrifices, big sacrifices. Cheap steel doesn't cost as much, but unless you invest a lot more time in it, quality suffers. Trained swordsmiths aren't necessary, have a mill carve the blade into the correct shape (note: good swords can come from mills, but that is only if they are properly heat treated, mills soften any austentite in the steel to a soft pearlite), get a Chinese steelworker/farmer and give him a one week course on quenching a blade to get a hammon. Get another Chinese workman to polish the blade in 15 minutes. Don't test your products, that takes time and money, and we need to get them across the Pacific quickly.
You won't get a quality sword under $1,000 American. Even the better cheap companies like Cold Steel and Paul Chen have terrible quality control below their upper lines.
Sorry if this isn't what you wanted to hear, but it needed to be said. Do actual research. Don't trust some guy on a forum because he sounds smart and has a large number beside the "number of posts" label. Do your research, learn about hardening and tempering, austentite, pearlite, marstensite, the design and history of the various blade styles (longsword, claymore, rapier, katana, dao, jian). Perhaps you should learn to use one, and be worthy of the sword that you are purchasing. There's no hurry, you've only got one lifetime, so you shouldn't waste it on buying the first thing you see.
Fencing Club at UH